Cruise Cruise Cruise! Update 2

After the first few days at sea we were starting to get a routine on the ship, our dinners continued to be some of the best moments on board and we began making friends with many of the other passengers. On Thursday we reached Ushuaia our first port of call. This is also where I met Roeland only two weeks before. We had the amazing opportunity to go Helicopter Trekking to Laguna Esmerelda, which was the one hike I had missed out on doing last time I was in Ushuaia. We also had the most amazing weather, it wasn't windy or raining, which it had been the entire week that Roeland and I were in Ushuaia the last time, even Anita was surprised and happy with the weather. This was also the first helicopter ride for both me and Roeland. It was the most amazing day!

We got up early to the familiar views of Ushuaia, and spent about half an hour wandering around the city and then got picked up for our tour. We met our guide Anita and she was with us for the helicopter ride as well the hike which was incredibly beautiful. The views were unbelievable and it was amazing to see how tiny Ushuaia looked from up above.
Anita had expected us to be an older couple and so she had brought tea along with her and was prepared to carry all of our stuff the whole hike. We ended up having the best time hiking with her and Laguna Esmerelda is beautiful, and muddy. But look at that color!  Plus I now want to get a helicopter license.

That night we had dinner just the two of us because we couldn't find Emma and Gilad on board (the ship is really big) but we all reconnected and went to the juggling show which was really cool he did it with glow in the dark balls so they looked incredible when all the lights in the theater were turned off. We went to bed early because the next morning (at around 5am we would be arriving at Cape Horn (the most southern tip of South America and where the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean meet). It was a cold and gloomy morning, and we could clearly feel the temperature shift as were were nearing the South Pole and Antarctica.

However after a few hours of enjoying the view and watching the Chilean coast guard we left Cape Horn and continued south in just open ocean as far as the eye can see. All 4 of us went back to bed and slept until early afternoon. Emma and I had a posh girls lunch in the formal dining room and spent the afternoon relaxing before going to watch the wedding game show.

For anyone who has ever taken a cruise before, you will know that almost always there is a marriage/couple game show to test who knows each other best and it is always hilarious. Well the four of us had been talking about it, Emma and I insisting that it was worth watching because you would be rolling on the floor laughing at some of the things they make the contestants do. So Emma and I found Roeland and headed to the theater to watch. There were two couples on stage but one set of empty chairs. Next thing we knew Roeland and I were asked to join the game show!

The only problem was, we'd known each other for 2 weeks not 27 years like the other couples. This game became a defining moment for us. First off they had us announce how long we'd known each other and where we met. As the last couple to be questioned when they got to us we told them we met in Ushuaia, and everyone thought we'd met the day before. After explaining that we'd actually known each other for a lot longer then one day, two whole weeks, Alejandro our cruise director couldn't believe it was real. The first challenge was they took all the women backstage and asked the guys questions, then they brought us out one at a time blindfolded, and we had to feel the men to decided who was our husband. However what I didn't know was that while I was feeling one guy they were switching the other guys so I felt up Roeland 3 separate times yet I thought they were different guys each time, it was extremely confusing, then they have you kiss the guy you finally decide is your husband, but before they took the he blindfold off they switch the guy making it look like you kissed someone else's husband. I did ok with this, according to Roeland I always knew it was him or not but was just confused because they kept switching them. The questions part we failed. Badly. The next round they took the men backstage and asked us questions to test the men, we failed again. However we redeemed ourselfs in the last round, which was to pop balloons on stage in "certain" positions. However it wasn't enough to bring out the win.

The cruise however filmed the entire show and played clips of it on TV in all the rooms and around the the entire ship, 24/7 for the next two weeks, everyone on board knew about our love story and called us their favorite couple. 

Antarctica and the Bikini Ladies

First off I will let Antarctica mostly speak for itself because the photos still can't do it justice but you get an idea for how break taking this place is. I was so excited to reach Antarctica that Roeland and I woke up too early 3 times, first off we had forgotten to turn off our 5am alarms from visiting Cape Horn, after that we went back to sleep but woke up about 40 minutes later thinking I had slept through Antartica and again around 7am at which point we decided to go and get breakfast because we were almost in ANTARCTICA!

Here are a few of my favorite photos from our days in Paradise Bay, Elephant Island and sailing around. 

The Bikini Ladies

Emma and I decided to take a photo in Antarctica with the glaciers in the background in our bikinis, because why not?

When we reached Paradise Bay it was around 10am and Emma, Roeland and I had been watching us sail through the glaciers for a few hours, this also meant we were now very aware of just HOW COLD it was, we were in around 7 layovers of clothing our jackets sweatshirts and then very large blankets tied around us. But we were going to do this bikinis pic. Roeland at first seemed to think we were just crazy and decided to stay inside at a window with a view of the ice while Emma and I went off to change and get pictures. We put our bikinis on and bathrobes and ran through the boat to get to the top deck, that way nothing would be in the background other then ice. When we got up there in flip flops and bathrobes everyone started staring, when we took the robes off and stripped down to our bikinis everyone started pointing and calling out to us that we are "brave" "crazy". We ran to the edge to get photos, Emma with the go pro and I handed my phone to someone to take photos. Next thing we knew we turned around and there was maybe 20-30 people creating a semi circle around us, taking photos of us! Then different members of the crew came up to us asking if they could get a photo with us and following their lead other passengers asked for photos as well. After 20 maybe 30 minutes of this we were way to cold and convinced everyone to let us go inside, we very quickly found hundreds of layers and blankets and tea. Roeland then saw the pictures and of course now wanted one with us. As we had turned in the bay the front was facing totally different glaciers so we quickly changed back into our suits to grab photos with him, seeing lots more people along the way people began to call us the "bikini girls/ladies". However after taking photos for the second time it felt a lot colder, not only was there less adrenaline but the wind chill seemed to have increased. Once we knew we had at least one good photo of the three of us, Roeland, Emma and I ran into the indoor pool, appreciating the steam and warmth and then to the sauna, which has a huge port hole and view of the glaciers. Emma and I hung out in the sauna for a while enjoying being able to feel our toes and fingers and our private glacier show. After wards we dressed in more layers, more blankets to the point where we couldn't actually move our arms. Still everyone recognized us as being the bikini ladies, yelling at us for having clothes on now. Apparently the dancers on board saw us and decided to do the same and all put their swimsuits on to get a photo.

As just a few days before Roeland and I had participated in the marriage game show we became good friends with Rachel and Alejandro the cruise directors.  Seeing them on deck we showed them the photos, Alejandro was insulted we hadn't waited to get a photo with him in our bikinis, but we told him no way we're we dong that again, maybe tomorrow. They told us that because it was snowing the "Antarctica dance class" might be cancelled because the decks were to slippery. Emma and I promised that if it wasn't canceled we would be there dancing. When the time for the dance class came about we saw Alejandro and Rachel literally on the ground with towers drying the decks and tons of people had showed up at least 50. Emma and I with our blankets tied tight and zero arm movement took a spot in the back, watching everyone on board  attempt to dance to these Latino songs is almost as entertaining as the dance class itself. Roeland decided to sit and watch with Gilad. Just before Alejandro began we hear him stop the music, "how many of you guys on board today saw the bikini ladies?" Lots of cheers from the audience and Emma and I share an embarrassed side glance at each other. Then Alejandro continues "don't you think they should put their bikinis back on and come dance up here?" Which is met with responding cheers. "Now?" Emma and I ask in unison as the entire boat seems to be staring at us. They have no idea how long it took us to get warm before. But before we can think of a way out of this "Bikinis! Bikinis! Bikinis Ladies! Bikini Ladies" is being chanted from the upper decks and the main pool deck. With no other option Emma and I run off and change into our now cold and wet bikinis, we also put socks and tennis shoes on because our feet would never have recovered from that barefoot. Making our way back to the pool the class is in full swing and we strip out of our leggings and sweatshirts and Rachel pulls us on stage.... There we were on stage teaching the Latino dance class in Antarctica in our Bikinis, without knowing any of the dances. And in my case with absolutely no rhythm or dancing abilities, and Roeland stood smugly and warmly up on the top deck watching us embarrass our selfs for now the infinite time on this cruise. Luckily when dancing we were moving so much that we didn't have to worry to much about getting cold the only thing that was too cold was our hands. The class lasted a while, and at the end of it, Emma and I got a standing ovation from the boat, we also were roped into taking pictures with Alejandro, which turned into us taking pictures with 2000 of our best friends as every person on board started grabbing on to us and point at cameras for us to smile at. I never thought we would get away. If anyone reading this was on that boat and had photos of the Bikini Ladies feel free to send them to me!

That night was silent disco again, and of course the bikini ladies made one last appearance. However this was not the last time we were called the bikini ladies, that didn't end until even off the boat while I was in the Buenos Aires airport two days later someone in security recognized me as bikini lady. Three days later at lunch Emma and I sat at a large 8 person table and two of the couples both thought we were part of the cruise performers not guests and that our bikini dance class was our job, if any of you have seen the video of me dancing you should know that there is no way we were paid for that. 

Not only was Antarctica the most beautiful  and pristine place I have ever been but it was probably the most memorable and infamous experience of my trips so far. 

Layovers

Having to rearrange my flights out of South America only seemed to reinforce my belief that everything happens for a reason. While I had 3 days less in Prtugal I had an amazing time enjoying each layover around the world on my way to Europe. First off it gave me two extra days in Buenos Aires which allowed me to see the San Telmo Sunday market that I hadn't got to see before, as well time to explore La Boca, and one last night to see the best of Buenos Aires and thanks to Miguel I got to have the most authentic experience of my time there. Leaving the cruise and my misfit family was hard enough as is so having at least one more day with Gilad and half a day with Emma was better then nothing. 

My flight from Argentina took off for Miami around 9pm and I landed in Miami early at around 3:30 in the morning. When I landed I knew that I had almost a 15 hour layover until my 7pm flight (later to be delayed until 10pm) and so I was brainstorming what to do. Originally I had expected just to go to a beach and tan all day however after checking the weather before leaving Buenos Aires I realized it may not be the best. I then decided that maybe I should go to Cuba for the day, I could book a 5am flight spend all day and a 5pm flight back to Miami. As my backpack was already checked through to London I had nothing to worry about carrying. However this plan went awry when I checked my phone to see that supposedly there was a "surprise" waiting for me at gate G. My mom and my sister flew down to Florida to spend my layover with me!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Best surprise, even better then Cuba.

We spent the day at the beach, and did some shopping in Miami then they even drove me to lil'havana so I could get a Cubano in lil'havana, almost as good as going to Cuba itself. It was the perfect layover, and the first time I got to see my family in 2 months, and potently the last for the next 5 months.

London I had another long layover, the best thing about London is that the museums are free and for a museum addict like me this is a very beautiful system. I left the airport after checking my backpack into my flight to Lisbon, and headed staight to the metro and to the V&A. I had tea in the courtyard after spending all afternoon wandering around the galleries. Later I found a pub near by for fish and chips before racing back to the airport. The perfect day in grey and rainy London.



I had another fabulous layover in Barcelona about a week later on my way to Morocco. I found out that I would be in Barcelona (from 11pm to 6 am) at the exact same time that Emma from UBC would be there. After landing in Barcelona I immediately ran to baggage claim to grab my bag and then head out to find Emma for a few drinks before making it back for my next flight. Of course the airport lost my bag. 2 hours later I made the last bus from BCN to Plaza Catalunya at 1:05am. Luckily with my backpack in hand. We had an amazing night wandering the streets of Barcelona getting late night tapas and drinks here and there before I raced back to the airport.

I've learned that while sometimes unpleasant and seemingly unnecessary, layovers can be little gifts giving you the chance to see a snapshot of so many amazing places. 

Buenos Aires y Noches Buenos

Flying into Buenos Aires at night is an experience EVERYONE needs to have in there life, the entire city is lit up and from every window in the plane the city seems to stretch on forever the lights never end. The greater Buenos Aires area is massive. I was not supposed to arrive until the Friday before the cruise so I didn't have a hostel but booked one while I was in the airport. When I woke up Tuesday morning and ate breakfast Stephan ran past me. He was late for a flight and was in the same hostel. A few minutes later Roeland showed up. Out of all the hostels in Buenos Aires we somehow ended up in the same one, and he had been there for a week. He met Emma a girl from England and had told her about our cruise, she met Gilad from Isreal and the two of them booked themselves on to our cruise. I didn't meet Emma or Gilad though until the day of the cruise because Emma and Reoland left that morning for a road drip around Argentina and I spent the week in government offices. 

Some quick research online taught me that there was a clinic in Buenos Aires near where I was staying that offered the Yellow Fever Vaccine for free to Argentinians. I head there first thing so that I could get my certificate and go to the Brazilian Consulate that afternoon. Well what I thought would be a walk in clinic and a fast visit turned into 3 hours of waiting in the streets because the line wrapped around the three blocks. About 2 hours into me waiting (still unsure if this was actually the correct building or line) a man came down the line taking everyone's identity cards, I gave him my passport assuming he worked for the government ..... Didn't see him or my passport again until after I entered the building about an hour later and they lined up five people at a time and gave everyone the same shot. This clinic ONLY gives yellow fever vaccines. I had no idea, and they never charged me so I saved almost $200. However this took so long to deal with that the consulate was closing in 2 hours by the time I got there and after waiting in line with my certificate they told me I had all the wrong information and to come back the next day. They refused to give me a transit visa and said it would be better if I applied for a tourist visa which requires a lot more paperwork and a different application.  That night I went to dinner with one of the girls who was sharing a room with me in the hostel, She invited me to join group of 9 of them. It was my first true Argentinean meal with lots and lots of red wine and steak. I love Argentina. That night we also went to a few bars and clubs exploring the Buenos Aires scene and I got a matching tattoo with Lucy (friends with Roeland and Stephan from Patagonia before I met them). 

This is my smiley, which being a solo traveler it's nice to always have a smile looking back at you, even when you feel all alone in a new city I always have a little friend with me. 

Wednesday was spent all day in the consulate and the Internet cafe a 20 minute walk and back and forth. Bringing more and more paperwork yet each time they seemed to find something else wrong with it they also only spoke Portuguese or Spanish with me. That afternoon I met up with one of the guys from dinner the night before as he had a flight that night we went to the port to sit in the sun and enjoy the afternoon people watching. 

On Thursday I spent the morning in my favorite place, the Brazilian consulate, and then met up with Vale, my friend from Puerto Varas who now lives in Buenos Aires for school. We had the most amazing day, shopping for clothing (I accidentally left almost all of my warm clothing i.e. Shorts and tanks tops in Puerto Varas, as well now needed at least one dress for the cruise evening wear) that night I decided to go to a tango show and one of the guys I had gone to dinner with the night before agreed to go with me, we had the most amazing time and the dancers even lets us get on stage afterwards and showed us some moves. That night we also snuck onto the roof of our hostel and watched the stars and Argentinean night life.

Friday I switched hostels, and met up with Roeland and Emma the following day. While on my own I explored more of Buenos Aires and even saw the craziest Rainbow.

 

The three of us went shopping as both of them needed clothing for the cruise, as well we decided to have one last Argentinian steak dinner to celebrate our Cruise-Eve. Dinner was amazing we ordered everything, creamy spinach, potatoes in like 4 different forms, steak, sausages, bread and more. On our way to dinner though we got caught in the most massive rain storm that I have ever seen and we ran through the stores of Buenos Aires without our shoes and Roeland without a shirt to try and keep it dry, we ended up visiting our old hostel and using the hair dryers to try and look presentable for dinner but we were so soaked from the rain that the next morning my shirt and shorts were still wet even after sitting all night on the heater. However while we ran in the rain we ran past this mural which says "Lluvia Suerte" meaning lucky rain which I though was a very very good sign.




SUNDAY WAS CRUISE DAY!

Post Cruise Buenos Aires:

Due to having to rearrange my flights I ended up with two days in Buenos Aires post cruise which I had not anticipated. The first was spent full of goodbyes, first to Roeland at the terminal, then I had to wait about 3 hours for Emma and Gilad to disembark the ship. The three of us attempted to walk to our hostel from the terminal however we quickly realized that it was too hot, our stuff was too heavy, and we were very out of shape post buffet life. We took a taxi dropping Emma off at the airline office and Gilad and I made a plan to meet her at the Starbucks around the corner (reliable wifi) once we had figured out our hostel. Of course we would stay at America Del Sur in Buenos Aires (the best hostel I stayed at in all of South America, for real if anyone reading this needs somewhere to stay). It's big and has tons of rooms, however when we arrived they all laughed and welcomed us back and even remembered that we'd come from Antarctica but we didn't have a reservation..... Turns out they do get full. But they let us stay and use the wifi to try and find another hostel because we both only needed one night. Gilad was headed south and then to Chile the next morning and I was flying out the next night. Just as we were giving up they had a cancellation of a PRIVATE ROOM , no bunk beds! It worked out excellently, we gathered all our dirty laundry dropped it off at the cleaners and found our way back to the Starbucks where Emma was waiting. We waited until she had to go the airport, my next goodbye.

We then went to explore the San Telmo Sunday market and had a final dinner together before I had to say goodbye to him the next morning. We also met up with Miguel from the Cruise had the most amazing and authentic night of my life. We met up at the |Obelisk, hung out at his apartment for a bit before he showed us his favorite summer spot it was past the river by a couple blocks that we found the real local BA. The entire street was live music and food trucks and bikes selling wine and beer and hundreds of people tango dancing in the streets and sidewalks. It was beautiful we sat and watched for over and hour and danced for even longer. 

I spent my last day exploring La Boca and enjoying my last warm South American moments before I left this amazing continent. 

Cruise Cruise Cruise! update 1

this was originally an email sent to my family after 3 days on board, more updates to follow

Hi everyone,

Having an amazing time on this cruise we are the perfect group of misfits (Roeland is from the Netherlands, Gilad from Israel, Emma from England and I) all solo backpackers now taking a luxury cruise. It's so funny to meet every everyone on the ship who booked this cruise years ago and we just walked on with our backpacks. Hope you all are enjoying the snow we are each severely sun burned from laying my the pool all day the past two sea days.

I don't think I've laughed as bad as I have in the last 3 days in all of my life between the language barriers and just general fun it's been so funny and great to travel with these guys. We get fresh chocolate covered strawberries or fudged everyday in our room because it's our "anniversary" on board and we got two free bottles of wine and one bottle of champagne. We have also become masters of scouting out all the events with free champagne on board.

Last night we went to the psychedelic 60s night and danced until almost 3am with all the older couples. And the night before was silent disco!! Emma and I have become the moms on board because we both have cruised before and the boys haven't plus they don't listen very well. 

The food is great and we are all motivating each other to go to the gym so that some of our clothing still fits when we get off this cruise. It's crazy that for the past month I was sleeping in bunk beds in rooms of 6 other people in hostels eating whatever I could find that was cheapest and now I'm eating filets and frog legs and sunbathing by the pool with martinis. Life is funny like that.

Watching the Super Bowl I met multiple people from around Washington state (we were all rooting falcons as we were anti-patriots) and met a couple from Pittsburgh and the husband WENT TO UBC 50 years ago! 

Tomorrow we will be in Ushuaia and Roeland and I are going Heli-trecking (thank you Lorraine) and then the next day we will be passing Cape Horn. 

Enjoying room service at like 3am after our silent disco night.  

Talk to you all soon,

Love Anna